What maps don’t mark
Strap (Page 1): Not all treasure lies buried. Bangalore’s living history quietly stares back at you from behind the rush. Go explore!
Strap (Page 8&9): Temples, forts, fossil rocks — secrets tucked into traffic routes and street corners. You just never looked close…
Byline: Bindu Gopal Rao
Let’s assume you’ve been a Bangalorean for a while now. You’ve ticked off the must-visit spots and fed your curiosity about the city’s past. But now, you’re hungry for more. Congratulations — your search ends here.
As summer yields to the monsoon and the weather strikes the perfect balance, this is the ideal time to rediscover the city. Bangalore is a potpourri of experiences, with treasures hidden in plain sight — waiting, as if in bated breath, to be discovered one place at a time.
If you enjoy seeing a city through a fresh lens — where there’s more than what meets the eye — and want to scratch beneath the surface, these spots will reveal many fascinating facets of our beautiful city.
Ulsoor’s ancient secret
Did you know that there is a temple in the middle of the city that is over 1300 years old? Well, this is in Ulsoor and is the Halasuru Someshwara Temple. This temple was built by the Cholas and has seen further additions and improvements in the Vijayanagara Empire during the reign of Hiriya Kempe Gowda II.
Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the temple has sculptures of Kamakshamma, Arunachaleshwara, Bhimeswara, Nanjundeswara, and Panchalingeswara; Ravana holding the Kailash Parvat; Goddess Durga slaying Mahishasura; and images of the Saptarishis. Look out for the beautiful carvings on the walls when you are here. The square sanctum, closed hall, rectangular pedestals, and frieze sculptures are in the signature Vijayanagar architectural style.
Where fossils & fort collide
The Lalbagh Botanical Garden is one of the most popular lung spaces in the city, but what is relatively less known is that it is also home to one of the oldest rocks on the Earth. Yes, you read that right! Check out the Peninsular Gneiss, believed to be anywhere between 2.5 and 3.4 billion years old. The gradual ascent to the top is a favourite with health seekers who are seen sprinting up and down these ancient rocks.
This is also where one of the four watchtowers built by Kempegowda I, the founder of Bangalore, marking the southern boundary of the city, is located. When in Lalbagh, do not miss the 20-million-year-old tree fossil, located near the bandstand. Said to have been brought from the National Fossil Park in Tiruvakkarai, this is said to be a petrified coniferous tree.
Tipu’s town
Mention Devanahalli today, and it is almost synonymous with Bangalore’s international airport. But did you know the erstwhile town is the birthplace of the great ruler Tipu Sultan? Located just under 30 km from the city centre, Devanahalli is home to numerous temples, including the famous Venugopalaswamy temple, which is one of the oldest in the city.
But arguably, the most famous attraction of this suburb is its mediaeval fort that dates back as early as 1501. The mud fort is believed to have been initially built by Chieftain Malla Byre Gowda, after which it was ruled by the Wodeyars of Mysore.
The Devanahalli fort in its present form was renovated in the 18th century by Haider Ali and was subsequently in possession of his son, Tipu Sultan, aka the Tiger of Mysore. The fort has been a witness to several battles, including those waged by the British. It ultimately was conquered by Lord Cornwallis in 1791, during the Mysore War.
While here, take a look at the small memorial erected to honour Tipu Sultan and his place of birth as well as the bastions built in brick and lime, replete with gun points. The fort also houses several temples, most of which date back centuries.
The lake that quenched a city
If nature and bird watching are your calling, head over to Hesaraghatta, located about 25 km from the city centre. While Hesaraghatta itself is the only grassland remaining in the vicinity of Bangalore, Hesaraghatta Lake, constructed on the Arkavathi River, is a manmade reservoir spread across a whopping 1224 acres.
It was constructed as early as 1894 to meet the growing drinking water demands of Bangalore. Surrounded by the Avalahalli forest, the lake forms a perfect getaway from the city. The waterbody is an integral part of the recently constituted Hesaraghatta Grasslands Conservation Reserve. This offbeat place is a haven for bird lovers, birding enthusiasts, and ornithologists alike and is home to a plethora of species like drongos, bulbuls, kingfishers, etc.
It is key to remember not to litter the surroundings or take your vehicles close to the lake, as it disturbs the birdlife and its natural habitat. Also be mindful when using the camera, especially with the flash on.
Where ‘Bangalore’ was born
Did you know that the word “Bangalore” was first mentioned in a 9th-century hero stone inscription found in a temple in Begur near Electronic City? This stone depicts a battle scene called ‘Bengaluru Yuddha’ or the Battle of Bangalore. Well, if this picked your curiosity about the city’s history, head over to the Nagareshwara temple in Begur village that is over 1300 years old.
Also known as Naganatheshvara Temple, this temple has two shrines – Nageshvara and the Nagareshwara. They date back to the 9th and 10th centuries and are believed to have been commissioned by the rulers of the Ganga Dynasty.
The other shrines of Kali Kamateshwara, Choleshwara, and Karneshwara belong to the later Chola dynasty. The temple, built in the Dravidian style of architecture, boasts of a massive five-tiered Rajagopuram, ornate pillars, and intricate carvings of various deities. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, who is the main deity here, the temple is highly popular with locals and visitors alike. The various hero stones and their historical details installed on the premises form an insightful read.